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Autumn Food, Blog, Spring Food, Summer Food, Winter Food

豆腐の日 (tofu no hi) : Day Of Tofu & Visiting Dragonfly Foods Tofu Factory


豆腐の日 (tofu no hi) : Day Of Tofu

The 2nd of October is Tofu Day “Nihon Tofu Kyokai”(日本豆腐協会), Japan Tofu Association decided that Oct 2nd as Day of Tofu (豆腐の日: tofu no hi in 1993. It’s a bit of a play on words due to the date. In japan the month comes before the day so the 10 for the month of October and 2 for the 2nd day in that month read in Japanese is 十二 is also read as to (十) fu (二) .

Tofu is one of the foods which represents the essence of traditional Japanese cuisine. The soybean, which is the key ingredient of tofu is rich in vegetable protein along with vitamins and minerals. Recently the world has come to recognize the health benefits of tofu and the appeal as an Ingredient.

In this blog post I discuss this and take you on a tofu journey for “tofu no hi”.

You may of noticed I’ve been creating tofu recipes this year using “Shizenno Megumi” tofu from Dragonfly foods. Shizenno Megumi means natures best, the brand was started to follow the traditional style of tofu making in Japan.

Nestled near the beautiful Devonshire coast is Dragonfly Foods. A tofu manufacturer that has gone above and beyond to uphold making tofu by a small group of passionate members, who bring traditionally made Japanese style tofu to the U.K

So how is tofu actually made ?

I had a rare chance to  see first hand for myself a traditional tofu factory at work when I visited Dragonfly Foods this summer. And took an exclusive look into the art of making tofu and find out the process of what makes “Shizenno Megumi”tofu stand out from the rest.

I was greeted by Shunzo Horikawa the managing director of Dragonfly Foods, who arrived in the U.K. in April 2022 from the parent company Hikari Miso, who bought dragonfly foods in 2015 a company that had been producing tofu since 1984. Hikari Miso wanted to upscale capacity and start to make tofu in a traditional Japanese way. To do  this they decided to take on the massive task of shipping a whole new purpose built facility for making tofu from Japan to Devon in 2017.

Shunzo was so kind to take time out of his dedicated busy day to give me a guided visit of the factory and an overview of the tofu making process.

We put on our protective clothing so we could enter into the factory.

First I was shown the organic soy beans from which the tofu making process all starts. The beans are soaked in water for 9 ~ 16 hours, after this time they have increased in size considerably. Once the soybeans have fully absorbed the water they are then washed and ground with water to make a slurry this is called (Namago). The slurry is then cooked under strict temperature control.

The heated slurry becomes Nigo and is then squeezed to separate soyamilk and okara (soy bean pulp).

Shunzo then explained that when soy milk is heated it produces foam and this is where Dragonfly Foods tofu becomes special. Other tofu may have an anti-former added to reduce foam developing. Dragonfly do not add any processing aid, and uses equipment called a Deaerator to remove foam by chilling milk while removing foams naturally. 

Heated soya milk is then mixed with coagulant called Nigari to create curd. Nigari naturally promotes umami and sweetness, Nigari derived from the Japanese word for “bitter” is a product created through harvesting sea salt and letting the water evaporate. Nigari contains a high concentration of minerals such as magnesium, potassium, calcium, iron, copper, zinc, selenium and chlorines.

The soya curd is then placed in a box and pressed gradually to make the appropriate firmness tofu slab.



Tofu slabs are then cut into 300g sizes and packed into individual containers.

The packs of tofu are filled with water, sealed and go into a pasteurisation system for 3.5 hours. Finely the tofu is checked for weight and quality .

Dragonfly tofu is made with modern equipment but with a traditional method as purely processing as possible and the taste and texture profile is targeted to be similar to Kyo Tofu and Shima Tofu for richness in soya flavour and sweet after taste.

Who would have thought so much love and attention goes in to every single block of tofu.

The origins of tofu:

It is said that tofu originated in China over two thousand years ago when a cook over seasoned a soy milk broth with too much salt. The salt then caused the milk to coagulate and that is how tofu became to be.  Tofu was introduced into Japan with Buddhism as Buddhist eat in general a plant based diet. It soon became the quintessential Japanese ingredient becoming a popular food among the general population during the Edo period.

The book “Tofu Hyakuchin”, which contained one hundred tofu recipes, was published in 1782 towards the end of the mid Edo period. The book shows an extensive variety of cooking techniques and a variety of ways of eating tofu. The most popular way of eating tofu was “yu-dofu”, a simple dish of boiled tofu with a dash of soy sauce. I think to truly taste tofu you have to first strip back everything to its freshest form by adding just a small amount of condiment. Only then can we really appreciate the subtle sweet flavour. I was lucky enough to try fresh tofu just as it had been made when I visited the tofu factory it was still warm and I could have just eaten a pack just as it was with nothing else.

Tofu and the health conscious:

Tofu has now become a popular choice for people trying to be more health conscious in their diet, being low in calories and packed with nutrients. Tofu is a concentrated source of easy to digest protein along with amino acids for cell growth, calcium, iron, magnesium, selenium, folic acid, essential B vitamins and more. Soybean has also something called isoflavones which has shown to reduce cholesterol, help regulate sugar, help with osteoporosis and even the menopause.

For those wanting to cut down or restrict meat totally from their diet tofu is the perfect meat alternative due to its high protein content one 115 gram serving of firm tofu containing around 20% of your daily requirements.

Cooking with tofu:

Tofu is an incredible versatile ingredient to cook with, it has little taste of its own but absorbs flavours extremely well. Dragonfly make three kinds of tofu in their Devonshire factory Firm, Super Extra Firm and Soft.

The soft variety this year I have been working with to produce a multitude of delicious desserts for you to try from donuts to ice cream, the softer variety also work with for dips and dressing as well as adding to the humble miso soup. The firmer varieties work wells in dishes like my recipe for Chanpura or my yakitori skewers or anything from frying, marinating, grilling or stir frying.

Shopping for tofu:

When shopping for tofu make sure you choose organic, made with the highest quality ingredients and containing no GMOs. Choosing Organic Dragonfly Tofu gives you that peace of mind as they are BRC AA+ soil association approved, the highest grade possible, they are also BRCGS food safety certificated. After purchasing simply store in the fridge and use before the best before date stated on the pack. When ready to use unpack from its packaging and discard the water. Your tofu if soft is ready to use straight away or press out any remaining liquid from the firmer varieties.

Yudofu 湯豆腐

Why not try using it simply in yudofu taking inspiration from the “Tofu Hyakuchin” cook book or Buddhist temples where it is often served. Buddhist kitchens focus on cooking natural foods with simple techniques. Yudofu 湯豆腐 is a nabe (hotpot) which is healthy, light and packed full of umami flavour.

Japanese hot pot is usually cooked in a clay pot called donabe (土鍋), however if you do not have one at home, you can make it in a regular pot.
All you need to do is simmer tofu in water konbu (昆布, kelp) and then eat it with a tsuyu dipping sauce and various condiments known as yakumi 薬味.
Yakumi are small amounts of condiments that are seasoning to bring out the umami of a particular dish. They are said to bring out the five tastes, amai (sweet), nigai (bitter), suppai (sour), karai (spicy) and shio (salty). Think of the paring together of wasabi and sushi. Some dishes have yakumi on the side where others are incorporated into the meal it’s self, like sauces and dashi.
Some of the most common yakumi are chopped green onion, schichimi pepper, shiso, oroshi daikon (grated daikon), sesame seeds and grated ginger. Yudofu is about one of the simplest forms of Japanese cuisine you can make, it is sometimes referred to as boiled tofu, although it is actually cooked at just below boiling.

To make Yudofu you will need a piece of dried konbu and one to two packs of Firm “Shizenno Megumi” tofu drained and pressed. If you would like to add some greens like watercress or mizuna that’s nice also.
You will also need your Yakumi any of the ones listed above.
You will need a dipping sauce and I find a citrus variation works wonderfully with the delicate flavours. If you want to make your own simply add 4 tablespoons of soy sauce and 1 tablespoons of mirin to a bowl and dilute with some kombu dashi, adding a little citrus juice is definitely recommended like yuzu or sudachi juice which you can buy already squeezed in bottles.
Put a 2-3 inch piece of kombu in a donabe or pot and enough water to half fill the pot, turn on the heat and when you see bubbles take out the kombu. Prepare your tofu then cut it into large squares, now gently add your tofu to the kombu infused liquid (dashi). Let the tofu simmer gently with the lid on for the tofu to warm through. Don’t let it boil. Add any greens to wilt in the hot water. With a slotted spoon or ladle transfer to your serving dish. Serve with your sauce poured over and experiment with flavours by adding condiments of choice.

However you decide to use tofu in your diet even if you are not vegan or vegetarian I am sure you will enjoy using it for its versatility and health benefits. I hope you will try out some of my many original tofu recipes that I have to offer on my recipe pages.

 

Blog, Summer Food

‘Suika-no-hi’ Watermelon Day



‘Suika-no-hi’ (スイカの日) Watermelon Day.

Celebrated every year on the 27th of July. This is because the Japanese characters for 27 and 7 can be read as rope, which is a word used to describe the vertical lines on a watermelon.

This refreshing fruit is much a symbol of Japanese summertime as is fireworks and yukata. When they come into season from June onwards, watermelons (suika in Japanese) make for the perfect summertime thirst quencher.

Unlike in the west fruit in Japan is considered a luxury item. Japanese fruit farmers strive for the very best fruit removing any bad or misshapen ones thus increasing the price. You may have seen fruit in luxury department stores all individually and carefully wrapped in presentation boxes, as people in Japan consider fruit a thoughtful and luxurious gift.

The watermelon in Japan became popular with farmers growing them in square containers to make square watermelons that were easier to fit in the fridge. This however was not a fruit of convenience but another fruit of luxury with a regular sized fruit costing at least 10,000 yen and even some on the first day of harvest fetching  350,000 yen a piece at auction.

You may of seen my previous post about seasonal cards given over the summer to wish people well, known as Shochu mimai 暑中見舞い. There is also a custom of giving gifts to people who you feel have helped you over the first half of the year. These gifts are called ochugen (お中元). A gift over the summer of fruit is always popular in Japan and I think a nice custom that we could carry forward into our everyday lives. It could have been a considerate neighbour or a friend that has helped you or maybe a teacher. No matter how small I think it might be nice to show appreciation, and I can think of no nicer way than with these watermelon jelly/sorbet wagashi from Minamoto Kitchoan. www.kitchoan.co.uk

They are a suika jelly made in Japan that can be frozen to turn into a refreshing sorbet.

They come in singles or in a box and can be bought mail order or from one of their many shops all over the world . They also do lots of other beautifully presented Japanese wagashi that make a perfect gift.

Anyway back to the more humble regular watermelon.

On ‘Suika-no-hi’ in Japan it maybe custom to head off to the beach with family and friends to partake in suikawari (watermelon smashing) a game much like Mexican piñata.

The player is blindfolded, armed with a stick or bokken 木刀, (A Japanese wooden sword used for training in kenjutsu,) to strike the watermelon with. The player is turned around three times and let loose to find a watermelon lying on the ground on a plastic sheeting. According to the regulations, the distance between the smasher and the watermelon must be between 5 and 7 meters. The rest of the participants shout to guide the player with the stick towards the melon. If the player doesn’t manage to break the watermelon within three minutes, the turn can go to another person to have a go. The first to crack the watermelon open wins. The watermelon can then be shared amongst the players.

Loved for their succulent flesh and hydrating properties the watermelon has become synonymous with Japanese summertime. As well as keeping you hydrated, watermelon provide a natural source of vitamins A and C. Other vitamins and minerals in watermelon include magnesium, potassium, zinc and vitamins B6. Studies suggest watermelon may even boost heart health, reduce muscle soreness, and decrease inflammation.

Watermelons are incredibly versatile in the kitchen working well in savoury and sweet dishes from smoothies and salsa as well as making a delicious salad with maybe some cubes of tofu and mint.

But today I’m going to be using the whole of the fruit to make two very Japanese style recipes.

The first is watermelon sashimi, where we are going to roast the watermelon into something replicating a tuna steak.

You will need x1 mini watermelon (you don’t want one too big as it will be hard to roast so the mini variety is perfect.

Cut the rind from the watermelon and put this to one side in the fridge you’re going to be using this in recipe two.

Place a piece of parchment paper in a roasting dish and place your watermelon in the dish in a moderate oven 180–190 °C Gas Mark 4-5, to slowly roast for 2-21/2 hours turning every half an hour. It may take up to 3 hours depending how big your watermelon is.

Now make your marinade while the watermelon is roasting.

Blend 3/4 cup of tamari, 1/2 inch of grated ginger, x1 teaspoon of white miso paste, x2 tablespoons of sesame paste, juice of x1 lime, x1 teaspoon of tomato puree, x1 tablespoon of toasted sesame oil and a sprinkle of aonori (dried green seaweed).

Remove the roasted watermelon from the oven it may look charred around the edges but it’s supposed to look like that, the sugar in the watermelon will have turned into a remarkable caramelised texture. Now brush the marinade over the watermelon. Pop the marinated watermelon back in the oven for 15 minutes. This is also perfect to add to a bbq for an extra smokey flavour.


Then remove and leave to cool for a few hours, cover with a dish and leave overnight in the fridge to really soak up all those umami flavours. Remove from the fridge and tip out any juices that may have come out of the watermelon overnight.

When ready to cut slice diagonally to create even pieces of watermelon sashimi.

You could make  Nigiri-zushi “hand pressed sushi” which is a typical Japanese dish consisting of an oval-shaped mound of vinegared rice with a slice of (usually) raw fish on top.



You can use the watermelon sashimi for this or make your own mock tuna sashimi donburi known as
Tekkadon (鉄火丼). Just add some sliced shiso leaves chopped green onion some Japanese pickled sushi ginger “Beni Shoga”  (紅生姜) a squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of sesame seeds.


Or a take on a poke bowl with rice watermelon tuna and slices of avocado, edamame beans and chunks of juicy mango.



You could even use it in sushi rolls.


Im sure this mock tuna steak could become a Japanese summer vegan staple and a fabulous addition to any summertime party you might be holding.

The second is using the rind from the watermelon to make Suika no Tsukemono スイカの漬物, Japanese Pickled Watermelon Rind.

Watermelon rinds are edible and nutritious and have even more potassium and fibre than the flesh! Helping to work with sodium to balance the fluid and electrolytes in the body.

This is a perfect embodiment of the shojin ryouri food philosophy of “Mottainai”もったいない or 勿体無い which translates to, ‘What a waste!’ or closely mirroring the old saying, “Waste not, want not.” Thus using the same ingredients with different recipes so as not to waste anything. I have another blog post where I talk about Ichi Motsu Zen Shoku, which is the use of using a vegetable in its entirety and Kondate-Zukushi a culinary practice of making an entire meal from one single ingredient. If you’re interested in further reading please check out my blog post  (Japanese thanksgiving).

Suika no Tsukemono

Take the rind you have removed from the watermelon and using a vegetable peeler peel off the hard green outer skin leaving the paler green and a bit of pink flesh. Slice the rind into strips around as evenly as possible, about 1 and a 1/2 inches in length and about 1/4 inch thick.

Place the rinds in a  re-sealable bag with the 1/2 a teaspoon of salt, gently rub to distribute and reseal the bag leaving in the fridge for a few hours. Make your marinade.

Marinade

1/2 teaspoon ginger juice, extracted from freshly grated ginger

2 tablespoons of brown rice vinegar

2-inch piece kombu (kelp), cut into strips

1 tablespoon of granulated sugar

1 tablespoon of tamari or soy sauce

2 or 3 peppercorns

Whisk the ingredients for the marinade together in a bowl. Remove the bag with the salted rinds from the fridge and pour out any liquid. Pour in your marinade and gently rub and toss the rinds to evenly spread the sauce.
Press out any excess air, seal the bag, and refrigerate preferably over night. After this time remove the kombu slithers.

They are best eaten the next day when the colour is vibrant.

Serve with a sprinkle of sesame seeds or for a bit of heat, add a drizzle of chili oil.

Japanese pickles (漬物, tsukemono) are an important part of the Japanese diet, served with practically every traditional meal alongside rice and miso soup. They are valued for their unique flavors and commonly used as a garnish, relish, condiment, palate cleanser aiding in digestion.

I hope that you will enjoy both of these recipes not just on a day dedicated to watermelon but the whole summer long.

Autumn Food, Blog, Spring Food, Summer Food, Winter Food

Tofu Taco Crumble introducing “Shizenno Megumi Tofu”

Meet Shunzo Horikawa managing director of Shizenno Megumi Tofu.

Shunzo arrived in the U.K. in April 2022 from the parent company Hikari Miso (you may been using this lovely organic miso already) which they had been making since 1936. Born in Kawasaki his first job out of university was working for House Foods America one of the largest Tofu manufacturers in the world and in 2019 joined Hikari Miso Co Ltd. Dragonfly Foods Tofu original brand since 1984 was bought by Hikari Miso in 2015 and decided to upscale production capacity by shipping massive equipment made in Japan and set up a new purpose built facility for making tofu in Devon in 2017.

Shunzo started to travel back and forth from Japan to Devon to help with supporting the production of tofu. In 2022 Shunzo moved to Devon with his family to start a new challenge with the Dragonfly team. “Shizenno Megumi” means natures best, the brand was started to follow the traditional style of tofu making in Japan. Working as a parent company with Dragonfly Foods in Devon they are BRC A+ soil association approved. Using Nigari as a coagulant the tofu requires intensive control to coagulate the rich soymilk. Nigari naturally promotes umami and sweetness, Nigari derived from the Japanese word for “bitter” is a product created through harvesting sea salt and letting the water evaporate. Nigari contains a high concentration of minerals such as magnesium, potassium, calcium, iron, copper, zinc, selenium and chlorines. The delicate soft tofu is hand crafted in Devon using Japanese techniques by a small group of passionate members bringing traditionally made Japanese style tofu to the U.K.

I was so humbled when I was approached by Shunzo who asked me to try out their range of Shizenno Megumi tofu. The range is firm, super firm and soft tofu. So what can we use each tofu for you might wonder. The soft tofu is wonderful cut into cubes and used in miso soup, Shunzo even recommends using it in smoothies and desserts. The super firm is good for dishes like a grilled sandwich or anything that might require the tofu to keep its shape in frying or sautéing.
I have decided to use the firm tofu to bring you a versatile recipe for a kind of taco style vegan mince that can be used in so many ways.
Let’s get started using Shizenno Megumi tofu !

Tofu Taco Mince

You will need:

x1 pack of Shizenno Megumi firm tofu (open the pack drain the water and wrap in a cloth or kitchen towel top with a weight and leave for an hour to drain) I use my heavy cast iron Japanese teapot lol.

You will also need:
1 cup of walnuts pulsed in a food processor to fine crumbs.

Spices: x1 teaspoon of onion powder, 1/2 teaspoon of garlic powder, 1/2 teaspoon of smoked paprika, x1 teaspoon of mixed herbs, x1 teaspoons of cayenne pepper.

x1 tablespoon of nutritional yeast

x1 tablespoon of toasted sesame oil

x2 tablespoons of tamari or soysauce

x2 tablespoons of tomato purée

x1 tablespoon of miso paste

A dash of chilli oil and vegan Worcestershire sauce

Method:

Unwrap the tofu, place into a bowl and mash it with a fork.
Add the pulsed walnuts and the rest of the ingredients and give it all a good mix.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spread out the mixture.
Place in a preheated moderate oven and bake for 30 minutes, then take the baking sheet out of the oven and give the tofu mixture a good mix round and spread it back out again. Place the tray back in the oven for 10 minutes and repeat again until all the mixture is dried out. Now your tofu taco mixture is ready to use.

How to use:

The tofu mixture can be used in a multitude of ways but keeping things Japanese here are three ways you can use it.

The first is soboro don そぼろ丼.
This meal is classed as Japanese comfort food. Normally beef Mince and scrambled eggs on top of fluffy rice. This is another perfect way to use the soft tofu, as you can use this to make the scrambled eggs part, to make it a vegan meal. Like before drain and wrap the soft tofu but do not weight it. Leave it to stand for 30 minutes to drain then add to a bowl and mash it with a fork, add x1 teaspoon of turmeric, x1 tablespoon of nutritional yeast and x1 teaspoon of ground kala namak black salt (this will give it a slight egg flavour). Give it all a mix and lightly scramble it in a frying pan. Just add a flavourless oil like coconut oil to the pan then wipe clean so the egg mixture is not sitting in oil. Cook some Japanese rice. You will have made enough tofu taco mince for many meals, I like to section mine out into sealable containers and freeze it as needed. Spoon some rice into a bowl and top one half of the rice with warmed through tofu taco mince and the other  half scrambled tofu. It is customary to add green vegetables like peas or beans in the middle.

Second meal idea is of course taco rice

(takoraisu) タコライス.

Taco rice is a Japanese fusion meal from Okinawa, normally consisting of taco ground beef on a bed of rice with lettuce, tomato and cheese. It owes its existence to the military presence in Okinawa in the 1960’s. Nowadays it’s a firm Japanese favourite. I have already got a few different recipes for taco rice on here so you could also check those recipes. This one was just lettuce rice and the taco mince on top. I made a delicious salsa for this one using roasted tomatillos, blistered pardon peppers and sliced myoga ginger.

Tomatillos, padron pepper and myoga salsa:

I had just recently acquired some tomatillos that come wrapped in a papery inedible husk which you must remove first.

Wash them and slice into halves or quarters depending on the size. Toss lightly in olive oil and a little sprinkle of salt and roast in the oven.

While that’s being done toss some padron peppers in a little olive oil and blister them on high heat in a pan.

When they are done leave to cool. Slice one small red onion and one bulb of myoga ginger and add to a bowl.  Myoga ginger can be found in some Asian super markets I have seen it in Ichiba in London and I buy mine from a Japanese store called Natural Natural in London. Myoga ginger doesn’t taste like ginger and is an edible flower bud. Add to this the juice of half a lime and 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Give it a mix and let it rest. When your tomatillos are ready leave to cool and chop finely your padron peppers then add both into the bowl with the onion and myoga. Finally add some chopped coriander and give it all a final stir.

Assemble your taco rice and add your salsa on top.

The final way I recommend using your tofu taco mince is with a creamy and flavourful Tantanmen ramen 坦々麺.

You will need 1 cup of shiitake dashi (leave a a dried shiitake in water over night)

First you will need to make goma dare this is the base of your sauce.

Add to a bowl x1 tablespoon of Neri goma (white sesame paste) if you have not got this you can use tahini. To this x1 tablespoon of white miso paste. Then add x1 tablespoon of light soy sauce, x1 teaspoon of brown rice vinegar, x1 teaspoon of chilli oil and x1 teaspoon of mirin.
Give it all a good whisk and put aside.


You will also need a packet of vegan ramen and toppings.

My toppings were vegan tofu taco mince, steamed bean sprouts, chingensai (pakchoy), Hokusai (Chinese cabbage), sweet corn, pea shoots, sliced pickles, lotus root, padron peppers and chilli threads. Choose what toppings you like and prepare these in advance.
When you’re ready start to cook your ramen. Add to a pan 1 and a 1/2 cups of soy milk 1 cup of shiitake dashi and 1/2 a cup of water. Add your goma dare mixture and start to heat it gently stirring to combine.

When your ramen is ready drain and divide into two bowls and pour over your sesame soy milk. Drizzle with extra chilli oil for heat. Add your toppings and you’re done.

Just on a final note you can add extra things accordingly to your tofu taco mince depending on what you’re making. You could add extra tomato purée or tomato passata to make a bolognaise sauce for pasta or maybe  sautéed onions chopped mushrooms or peppers.

And now a treat for you Shunzo has very kindly given me an exclusive discount code for you to use on their website to purchase their delicious tofu. Just head over to www.dragonflyfoods.com click shop choose your items and put them in your cart, check out and input the promo code TOKYOPONY20 under coupon code on the delivery and payment section. This will take 20% off your bill. This offer will run until the 11th of August 2023.
Have fun in the kitchen.

Autumn Food, Blog, Spring Food, Summer Food, Winter Food

The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House A Japanese Style Breakfast & Caramel Bread Pudding

The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House

舞妓さんちのまかないさん

A series on Netflix about Food & Friendship set in a Maiko house in Kyoto.

Photo Credit: The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House, 2023. Netflix

From acclaimed filmmaker Hirokazu Kore-eda

Adapted from the manga series “Kiyo in Kyoto”by Aiko Koyama,

season 1 episode 3

“Taboo”

Part one: A Traditional Japanese Breakfast.

Have you ever visited Japan and been served a Japanese breakfast maybe in a “traditional Japanese inn with tatami floors and an onsen communal bath”?

A Japanese traditional breakfast normally consist of rice, miso soup, tsukemono (pickles), a main meal like grilled salmon and some side dishes like tamagoyaki ( Japanese rolled omelette) and gomaae.

Waking up early before anyone else, Kiyo sets to work on making one such meal for the girls breakfast in the Maiko house. She puts on her apron and ties back her hair in preparation. She greets the dashi stock that she made the night before as she opens the lid on the pot “ Hello there and good morning”. 

First she starts to slice okra to make a simple side dish with sesame “Okra Gomaae”.

This side can also be made with green beans or spinach. Kiyo doesn’t cook the okra where as if I was using green beans or spinach I would blanch them first.

Goma 胡麻 means sesame and Ae 和え means to dress. To make this you can toast and grind your sesame seeds but for ease in the morning I like to use Surigoma which are already toasted and ground . Slice your okra with diagonal cuts like Kiyo did and place to one side. Add to a bowl two tablespoons of surigoma and to that add one tablespoon of soy sauce or tamari and one tablespoon of sugar, mix well into a paste, then add your okra to combine and your done. You might wonder about the raw okra but believe me this side dish is lovely and crunchy with out the slime of cooked okra.


Next Kiyo makes a simple miso soup with silken tofu and cherry tomatoes using a special sieve to dilute the miso with out clumps called a Misokoshi. I love mine and they are available to buy from www.hatsukoi.co.uk 

Kiyo opens her rice cooker and fluffs up the rice, then starts on grilling the salmon.

Obviously we want to make a vegan version of this so this takes a little preparation starting the night before with marinating some tofu.

To make your marinade:

Add to a jug or bowl, x1 tablespoon of shredded nori (kizami nori), x2 tablespoons of brown rice vinegar, x2 tablespoons of tamari, x2 tablespoons of sesame oil, 1/4 teaspoons of liquid smoke, x1 tablespoon of beetroot juice, x1 tablespoon of coconut palm sugar, a one inch piece of peeled and grated fresh ginger and a 1/4 teaspoon of chilli flakes. Leave this to soak for a few hours and then pour the liquid out through a sieve. Pour the liquid into a dish for your tofu to sit in.

Prepare the tofu:

You need to get the water first out of a block of firm tofu. You can do this by pressing it or you can steam it for five minutes or microwave for one minute wrapped in a paper towel. Let the tofu cool, then cut the piece of tofu in half and slice the top of each piece at an angle making a wedge shape. Make diagonal slices in the tofu be careful not to cut all the way down.

Place into the marinade turning it over a few times and then leave over night cut side down.

In the morning remove the tofu and place a piece of cut nori to fit  the uncut side of the tofu then lightly dust in starch and fry on all sides in a pan with hot oil. Remove and put to one side.


You will notice kiyos breakfast consist of two other sides as well as quick pickles.

Another popular side dish is hijiki no nimono simmered hijiki seaweed salad.

First soak two tablespoons of dried hijiki seaweed in hot water for 30 minutes.

You will also need to remove the oil residue from a piece of aburaage, to do this put your aburaage in a sieve and pour hot water over it then blot with kitchen towel, after that slice into thin strips and put in a pan. Drain a can of precooked soy beans or if you can’t get soy beans something similar (I used cannellini). Put half the beans in the pan with the aburaage. Julienne or grate one carrot and add this to the pan. Drain the hijiki and add this to the pan. Give everything a quick stir fry in a little sesame oil, then add to the pan, x1 teaspoon of dashi powder, x2 tablespoons of mirin, x2 tablespoons of tamari or soy sauce and 100ml of water. Simmer for about five minutes until all the water has gone. Place to one side.


I also made a vegan tamagoyaki using a vegan omelette mix called “Nomelette” which you can purchase from www.sunandseed.com. I made up the desired amount instructed to make one omelette and added a piece of nori before rolling it then cut it into slices.

Finally no Japanese meal can be without tsukemono or quick pickles called asazuke made with salt or vinegar and they are super easy to make. Just add chunks of carrot, cucumber and daikon to a zip lock bag. Then if you want to make salt pickles known as shiozuke just add a few teaspoons of salt and rub the salt into the vegetables. I like to use Japanese salt from Okinawa but I understand this is not easily come by. Do this at the start of making you meal in the morning and then they will be ready to serve when everything else is done.

Kiyo served her Japanese breakfast with onigiri rice balls so I decided to do the same with my breakfast.

I had just recently received this beautiful solid ash wooden serving box containing mino ware plates and dishes that fit inside. It is called a Hibino Modern Shokado Bento Box. I love how this can be used from using the dishes and plates that come with the box or adding your own. The lid can be also used as a tray. If your interested in this it is from www.musubikiln.com

I thought this would be the perfect way to serve this very special breakfast.

A further note in this episode:

Kiyo goes grocery shopping at the local market, she buys silken tofu and is delighted to find daikon radish grown in Aomori. The store owner points out that the leaves attached are edible. If your lucky enough to ever find this you can lightly blanch the leaves or stir fry them  or why not try my furikake recipe found in my “Live by the Shun” blog for summer.


Part 2 Caramel Bread Pudding also known as  (Pan Pudding)

パンプディング, pan means bread in Japanese. 

Tsurukoma one of the girls in the Maiko house is upset to find her caramel pudding missing from the fridge. It was just an ordinary caramel pudding from the convenience store, but Maiko are not allowed to enter when their hair is done so she would have to wait all week for another.

It’s early morning and Kiyo is washing rice, Tsurukoma comes down before anyone else is awake requesting bread for breakfast, but there is only one slice. What can be done with it ? As Tsurukoma was so upset over her missing caramel pudding, Kiyo sets out to make her a caramel bread pudding.

The bread pudding is made with shokupan パン Japanese milk bread. Even if it is available for you to purchase it is very rarely vegan as it’s made with milk and butter.

If you follow my shokupan bread recipe you can make your own.

The next problem with  making the bread pudding are the eggs used. So I decided to give the new liquid egg vegan substitute a try called “scrambled oggs”

To make vegan Caramel Bread Pudding:

Preheat your oven to 165 dregrees C

You will need a gratin dish greased on all sides with vegan butter.

You will need one slice of shokupan around 3/4 inch thick cut into six  pieces. Add this to your gratin dish leaving space in between.

In a bowl add  100ml of vegan egg mixture to that add two tablespoons of sugar, 3/4 of a cup of soymilk, 1/2 a teaspoon of vanilla essence and a pinch of salt. Whisk up the mixture and pour half over the bread and let it soak in then add the rest. I actually sprinkled a little nutmeg on the top of mine but that was just personal taste. Put your gratin dish in the oven and bake until golden brown around 30-40 minutes ( keep and eye on it.)  

During the episode Kiyo receives a parcel from her grandmother it’s a heavy cast iron pan called Tetsuko. Tetsu meaning iron in Japanese. She uses this to make the caramel sauce. I had recently bought some oat syrup by Clearspring when I tried it I thought how much it tasted like caramel so I decided instead of making a caramel sauce to warm up a tablespoon of the oat syrup and swirl that onto of the bread pudding when I removed it from the oven.

This pudding is just as delicious as one made with diary and eggs, it melts in the mouth and feels luxurious and comforting at the same time. Crispy on the outside and soft inside. Like Tsurukoma did in this episode just take a spoon and dive straight in.

More recipes to come in my next The Makanai blog.

If you haven’t already watched it yet

The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House is available for streaming on Netflix.

Autumn Food, Blog

Inoko Mochi 亥の子餅 (Baby Boar Cake A Seasonal Delight)


From late October to November you may see this confectionery in wagashi stores throughout Japan. It is custom to eat this Japanese sesame delight on “inoko no hi” 亥の子の日 Baby Boar Day . The wagashi is normally eaten on the day of the boar ( this year 2025 being Sunday  the 2nd of November) for a prayer for good health. These wagashi are served at this time as part of a Japanese tea ceremony known as “Robiraki” 炉開き which is when the brazier set in the tatami mat is opened for the winter season. This is because the wild boar is believed to be a messenger of the Buddhist god of war and fire. It is also custom at this time to start using heating devices like the kotatsu 炬燵. The winter hearth is opened on the first wild boar day and tea is served with inoko mochi.

I decided to make inoko mochi wagashi 亥の子餅 baby boar cake. After the Halloween festivities it’s something that little bit different and still keeping in with the Japanese seasons. Black sesame is used to look like the spots on a wild boar piglet. The mochi is also seared with markings on the surface.

This is how I made Baby Boar Piglet Mochi ( Inoko Mochi )

Mix 30grm Shiratama flour with 4 and 1/2 tablespoons of water add 30grms of Joshinko flour and 50grms of sugar and mix again. Then mix in 30grms of mashed bean paste and 8grms of black sesame seeds.


Place a metal pancake ring inside a steamer and cover with a muslin cloth. Spoon the mixture inside the ring and steam for 15mins. If after this time the mochi is still a little wet steam a little or or you can microwave for 1 minute.

Meanwhile make x8 balls of bean paste ( 160grms = 20grms each ball)

Tip the steamed Mochi out into a bowl and mash, then tip out onto a surface with potato starch.  Divide the Mochi into 8 pieces. Flatten each piece and place a ball of bean paste inside and fold the mochi over. Roll and shape into a piglet.

Heat a metal rod and sear each Mochi with three stripes. Enjoy with matcha or your favourite Japanese tea to celebrate the changing seasons. The searing of the mochi gives it a lovely toasted sesame flavour.

I served mine with a hojicha latte and sprinkled  it with powdered ginger to make it extra warming.

They are also delicious with matcha

 

Autumn Food, Blog

Soy Yogurt Shiokoji Soft Cheese & Crispy Black Sesame Mushrooms


The momiji are really turning in my garden now,  autumn has truly arrived ! Aki Kinu !

I wanted to make a meal using the flavours of the harvest season. To me mushrooms are a key ingredient at this time of year. Being high in vitamin D they are also the perfect thing for the body once we start to get less sunlight.
I adapted this recipe after being inspired by Riverfords organic vegetable box. I wanted to make it more Japanese so this is what I came up with.

First make your soft cheese. I have made soft cheese before with soy milk and there is a recipe on my pages for this but this is even easier. I used 1/2 a 400g pot of natural organic soy yogurt add to this a teaspoon of shiokoji. Shiokoji is a natural seasoning made with salt water and rice koji. If you want to make more cheese use the whole pot and double the Shiokoji.

Give it a mix and spoon your yogurt into a  piece of cheese cloth. Tie at the top and leave in a sieve over a bowl in the fridge to drain for around three days. You now have your cheese.

You can also use it with crackers and chutney it’s really delicious.

Next make a marinade for your mushrooms. I added one tablespoon of ground black sesame powder (surigoma kuro すりごま) to a bowl. To this add a tablespoon each of tamari, toasted sesame oil and  maple syrup give it a stir to combine and then add your mushrooms. I used a mix of shimeji, eryngii and maitake you can use what ever mushrooms you like. Give it all a good mix coating your mushrooms in the black sesame and leave for half an hour.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and brush the paper over with a little sesame oil then spread out your mushrooms. Bake in a moderate oven until they are crispy. Remove and sprinkle with chipotle flakes.
Toast some ciabatta or any crusty bread then spread with your soft soy yogurt cheese, top with mushrooms and finish with a dollop of  wasabi mayonnaise and a squeeze of sudachi ( both optional ). You can purchase these from The Wasabi Company see the links on my pages.

I had mine with a fresh salad, Kabocha pottage and for dessert persimmon kuzu mousse.


To make the mousse just use persimmon purée and a kuzu slurry (a tablespoon of kuzu root mixed with a little water) heat in a pan until it thickens and then spoon into a pot and cool in the fridge. Finish with some slices of persimmon.

Persimmon or kaki as they are known in Japan remind me of autumn there. You will see them growing everywhere  and at the farmers markets. A real taste of Japan. No wonder the Japanese call this time of year Shokuyoku no Aki (autumn the season of appetite ).

Autumn Food, Blog

Sesame millet cookies


There is nothing better than coming home after a nice autumn walk and enjoying tea and homemade cookies.

When I made these cookies I was delighted that they stayed crunchy the next day without going soggy. And they are also gluten free !

1 cup of bobs mill or other brand millet flour

1 tablespoon of potato starch (or cornstarch)

1/4 tea Baking power 1/4 tea baking soda

Pinch of salt

55grms of vegan butter

1/4 cup granulated and 1/4 cup coconut palm sugar

1 teaspoon of vanilla

3 tablespoons of sesame paste or tahini

1 tablespoon of chickpea water (known as Aquafaba )

Cream together butter sesame paste sugar vanilla and chip pea water and beat until smooth and fluffy

In a separate bowl add flour baking powder and baking soda and salt .

Add wet to dry and mix to combine

Use your hands to work into a dough ball and put in the freezer for 20 mins .

Preheat oven around 180 degree’s c

Get a tablespoon of dough and work into a ball place each ball on a baking sheet which you gave lined with parchment paper and flatten the ball with a fork keep doing this until you have no dough left.


I made quite large cookies but you can make smaller ones if you wish. Keep in mind they do spread out a lot when baking.

Sprinkle with sesame seeds

Bake for about 12-20 mins until golden

Leave to cool a little and then transfer to completely cool on a wire rack . These cookies stay crisp for days in an airtight container.

Enjoy autumn teatime.

Blog

Yakumi not just a condiment

Yakumi are small amounts of condiments that are seasoning to to bring out the umami of a particular dish. They are said to bring out the five tastes, amai (sweet), nigai (bitter), suppai (sour), karai (spicy) and shio (salty). Think of the paring together of wasabi and sushi. Some dishes have yakumi on the side where as others are incorporated into the meal it’s self, like sauces and dashi.

Some common yakumi are green onion,ginger,wasabi, shiso, oroshi daikon, Myoga, and sesame seeds. There are also citrus like sudachi and Yuzu. Spices can be also yakumi like sansho and schichimi seven spice pepper. Getting the idea?
Noodle dishes eaten cold often have yakumi on the side with a dipping sauce oroshi (grated daikon), chopped green onion and sesame seeds.

One of my favourites that incorporates this is Hiyayakko or chilled silken tofu, often with a citrus soy sauce called ponzu that your pour over. Yuzu juice which is added to make ponzu is said to be good for the immunity.


Yakumi is written in Japanese like this 薬味 which translates to medicine flavour, this is where it gets interesting, the condiments used are not just to add colour or enhance flavour but they carry medicinal properties as well. Wasabi helps with digestion, and is also antibacterial so this is why it is added to raw fish like sashimi and sushi. Ginger is also good for the digestion and so is shiso. Shiso has natural antiseptic qualities and you will often see it used as dividers for food in bento boxes to help keep the food fresh.When you grate daikon it has the same effect with digestive enzymes Oroshi daikon is high in vitamins, fibre,calcium and iron it is also an anti inflammatory. Another one good for inflammation is green onion, often seen in miso soup or served with a dipping sauce.
Why not make some of the recipes on this website incorporating yakumi . Today I decided to make Yudofu basically translates to hot water tofu.


Often a meal served in Buddhist temples. You would think something so simple as just tofu in hot water would have no flavour but this is where the yakumi really come into their own. Tofu is cooked with simply water and kombu kelp in a pot. When you serve the tofu just pour over some ponzu and eat with some of the condiments. Itadakimasu!

Autumn Food, Blog, Spring Food, Summer Food, Winter Food

Sesame Cookies


These cookies were a big hit, soft and chewy on the inside but a nice crisp outer. They make the perfect ice cream cookie sandwich, and have a lovely caramel flavour. Some of you on my Instagram account wanted to know the recipe so here you are.

This will make about 10 large cookies.

Preheat the oven to 150 ( moderate oven )

Mix in one bowl

1/2 cup of gluten-free oat flour

1/2 cup of chick pea flour (gram flour)

1/2 cup of coconut sugar

1 teaspoon of baking powder

2 tablespoons of White roasted ground sesame (suri goma shiro)

すりごま

If you are in Japan you maybe able to get this ground almond and sesame blend which is also a nice alternative.

Mix in a separate bowl

1/4 cup of maple syrup

1/3 cup of melted coconut butter

1 teaspoon of vanilla essence

2 tablespoons of sesame paste or tahini

1 tablespoon of water

Mix the wet ingredients into the dry and form a dough

Make balls from the dough and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. When you have used all the dough flatten them out with you hands and then if you like make a pattern with a fork.

Sprinkle with some toasted sesames and place in the oven for 15-20 minutes.

Take out the oven and leave to harden and cool.


Enjoy!

 

 

Autumn Food, Blog, Spring Food, Summer Food, Winter Food

Vegan Banana Bread with Yuzu & Kinako

Everyone is making Banana bread at the moment it’s having a revival during these trying times. Maybe it’s because banana bread is that comforting moist treat that’s good toasted warm for breakfast or is nice with that cup of tea in the afternoon. I had some Bananas in my organic veg box delivery and bananas are not something I eat many of so they went soft and spotty sitting in my fruit bowl, which is perfect for making banana bread. However flour is also in short supply and the only flour I could get was sprouted spelt flour, then I remembered how I had previously used kinako ( roasted soybean flour ) in some of my other baking  recipes and thought why don’t I mix the two and try it making a banana bread. It turned out much more tasty than any banana bread I had ever made before! In these times when your normal ingredients are scarce you might find that using an alternative can either be a disaster or a success, but that is how new recipes are created, it can be very much trial and error. Many times I have experimented with ingredients so that I can bring to you the recipes on this website. Many at the time were not commonly used.
So I give you my friends a banana bread with a Japanese twist.

Heat up your oven to 180c and line a loaf pan with parchment paper.

Make 2 flax eggs ( x2 tablespoon of flax meal mixed with x6 tablespoon of water and set aside to set.

Then to a bowl add
x1 cup of spelt flour and x1 cup of kinako ( you can use oat flour but I really liked how the spelt and the kinako together gave it a lovely nutty flavour. I used sprouted spelt flour by Rude Health.

Addto the flour x1 teaspoon of baking powder and 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda.

Then in a food processor add 10 soft medjool pitted dates and to that 1/2 a cup of soy milk and 1-2 tablespoons of Yuzu juice. You can buy bottles of 100% Yuzu juice from Asian supermarkets online.


Give this all a good process until smooth, then while the food processor is still moving break up and drop in x3 over ripe bananas and your flax eggs. Make sure it’s all well blended and then fold in the mixture into your flour mix. If you have any candied Yuzu peel you can chop this up and fold into the mixture also.


Tip the mixture into a loaf pan and add sliced banana to the top.

Then use some ground sesame to sprinkle on the top. I actually had a packet of a combination of ground sesame and almond from Japan and I used that.


Bake in the oven for 1 hour and remove to cool. After about 30 mins you can lift out the banana bread with the parchment paper and place on a wire rack to cool more.
I had this the next day with a coffee for breakfast.
I really hope you can enjoy making this banana bread for yourself.

Autumn Food, Blog

Japanese Micro Season Part 16 Autumn Equinox & Making Ohagi


We are now heading in to the shorter days of Autumn. Sunday the 22nd  is the Autumn Equinox. In Japanese micro season it is known as Shūbun. This season is broken into three parts.

September the 23rd-27th Kaminari sunawachi  koe o osamu ( thunder ceases )

September the 28th- October 2nd Mushi Kakurete to o fusagu ( insects hole up underground )

October 3rd-7th Mizu hajimete karuru. ( farmers drain the fields )

The equinoxes are a special time for Buddhists they believe that this is when the worlds between the living and dead are at their thinnest, thus at this time people pay respects to the deceased .

This is also part of the silver week holiday in Japan starting with Respect the aged day  and finishing on equinox day.

Buddhists call Autumn Equinox O-Higan or Aki no Higan, and it is tradition to make ohagi at the time a type of Japanese wagashi (sweet) Ohagi おはぎ is named after the Japanese clover bush and these sweets are sometimes also taken to ancestors graves at this time as offerings. They are really delicious and so easy and fun to make.

To celebrate why don’t you try to make them. They are made with sweet half pounded ( hangoroshi ) mochi rice with an anko filling and rolled in various toppings like kinako and ground sesame. You can also do a reverse one where the rice is the filling and the anko is on the outside. You can either buy chunky bean paste called Tsubuan in packets at Asian grocery store or make your own.

The above shows mochi rice and bought and homemade tsubuan.

You will need 1 rice cooker cup of sushi rice and 1 cup mochi rice (mochigome). First give the rice a good rinse changing the water until in runs clean. Soak your rice in four cups of water over night and then cook in your rice cooker or pan. This does make a lot of ohagi so you can either freeze them or just use half the amounts 1/2 cup sushi rice 1/2 cup Mochi rice and two cups of water. Through experience if your rolling your ohagi in toppings do this after you have defrosted them.

When the rice is done mash your rice but not fully so you still have some grain and leave to cool covered with a cloth so it doesn’t dry out. Divide into balls and flatten out. It is advisable to use plastic wrap but if you don’t want to just have damp hands and a wet clean cloth to hand. In the middle of each flattened ball add a ball of anko and then fold the rice over the anko to make a sealed ball. Carry on making until all are done.

If you want to make inverted ohagi make small balls of rice and add this to the middle of larger flattened balls of tsubuan.

Now choose what you would like to roll your ohagi in . Powdered black sesame ( kurogoma ), kinako ( soybean flour ), sesame seeds mixed with sugar or maybe matcha.

How about making Kurumi which is powdered walnuts with sugar. The balls of sticky rice become easier to mould into balls after they have been rolled in the topping.

They make lovely gifts and are perfect with a green tea.

I know I will be making them to enjoy with a tea while looking out onto my already changing colours of maples in my garden. In Japan they won’t be changing just yet people in Japan will have to wait until late October, November to do what’s called momijigari or autumn leaf hunting which is as much a custom as hanami flower viewing in the spring.

Kyoto

Inokashira park Tokyo

Autumn Food, Blog, Summer Food

Tsukemen ( dipping ramen )

Do you know Tsukemen?

つけ麺 /dipping ramen

This is a popular summer dish in Japan when the weather gets hot and humid. As it’s turning cooler in the UK now I thought it might be nice to make this dish as one final farewell summer Japanese meal.

Cold ramen noodles are served separately with a hot dipping soup. Pick up a few noodles and dip into the soup. 

I had a can of organic tomato and basil soup which I used as one dipping broth adding some chilli oil for extra spice and then some left over Kuri pumpkin soup and I used @ohsawa_japan_group ramen. 

Served with some roasted vegetables ( purple sweet potato,daikon,carrot,lotus root and eggplant. Also a shaved fennel salad with salad leaves.  For the salad I made a sesame/miso dressing. 

Autumn Food, Blog, Spring Food, Summer Food

Kyuri Itame

Cucumber is an ingredient that everyone uses in their salad making. It’s cooling in the summer and has a high water content so is hydrating. In Japan they even serve it at summer festivals resting on ice they are chilled on a stick . However in Japan they also cook cucumber and this was something I was intrigued to try out. We cook zucchini which is similar so let’s try cucumber.

This dish is so easy but so flavourful that after I made it I thought I really wanted to share it with you. Just simply serve on rice maybe with a miso soup and you have a wonderful meal.

I like to use a peeler and peel the skin into stripes it makes the dish more appealing but you don’t have to do that . I used ridge cucumber but you can use any cucumber you like. Depending on how many people your making this for I used half a large cucumber per person.

Cut the cumber at an angle into thick slices and then half the slices.

Put your slices into a pan. Mix together equal parts of  mirin,tamari or soy sauce, toasted sesame oil, brown rice vinegar, a little salt and sesame paste . I use Japanese sesame paste if you can’t get it then use tahini. If you live in the UK you can buy it mail order from sous chef the link to their website is either at the bottom or at the side of the page depending on your browser.

Mix together adding a little water. I used one tablespoon of each for each half a cucumber also add a teaspoon of grated peeled ginger.

You could also add a little miso as an alternative to the sesame paste for a different flavour .

Heat your pan and pour in the mixture and sprinkle in some sesame seeds. I also added some radish for colour. Stir fry until browned slightly and the sauce has thickened. Spoon out onto warm freshly cooked rice.