‘Suika-no-hi’ Watermelon Day
‘Suika-no-hi’ (スイカの日) Watermelon Day.
Celebrated every year on the 27th of July. This is because the Japanese characters for 27 and 7 can be read as rope, which is a word used to describe the vertical lines on a watermelon.
This refreshing fruit is much a symbol of Japanese summertime as is fireworks and yukata. When they come into season from June onwards, watermelons (suika in Japanese) make for the perfect summertime thirst quencher.
Unlike in the west fruit in Japan is considered a luxury item. Japanese fruit farmers strive for the very best fruit removing any bad or misshapen ones thus increasing the price. You may have seen fruit in luxury department stores all individually and carefully wrapped in presentation boxes, as people in Japan consider fruit a thoughtful and luxurious gift.
The watermelon in Japan became popular with farmers growing them in square containers to make square watermelons that were easier to fit in the fridge. This however was not a fruit of convenience but another fruit of luxury with a regular sized fruit costing at least 10,000 yen and even some on the first day of harvest fetching 350,000 yen a piece at auction.
You may of seen my previous post about seasonal cards given over the summer to wish people well, known as Shochu mimai 暑中見舞い. There is also a custom of giving gifts to people who you feel have helped you over the first half of the year. These gifts are called ochugen (お中元). A gift over the summer of fruit is always popular in Japan and I think a nice custom that we could carry forward into our everyday lives. It could have been a considerate neighbour or a friend that has helped you or maybe a teacher. No matter how small I think it might be nice to show appreciation, and I can think of no nicer way than with these watermelon jelly/sorbet wagashi from Minamoto Kitchoan. www.kitchoan.co.uk
They are a suika jelly made in Japan that can be frozen to turn into a refreshing sorbet.
They come in singles or in a box and can be bought mail order or from one of their many shops all over the world . They also do lots of other beautifully presented Japanese wagashi that make a perfect gift.
Anyway back to the more humble regular watermelon.
On ‘Suika-no-hi’ in Japan it maybe custom to head off to the beach with family and friends to partake in suikawari (watermelon smashing) a game much like Mexican piñata.
The player is blindfolded, armed with a stick or bokken 木刀, (A Japanese wooden sword used for training in kenjutsu,) to strike the watermelon with. The player is turned around three times and let loose to find a watermelon lying on the ground on a plastic sheeting. According to the regulations, the distance between the smasher and the watermelon must be between 5 and 7 meters. The rest of the participants shout to guide the player with the stick towards the melon. If the player doesn’t manage to break the watermelon within three minutes, the turn can go to another person to have a go. The first to crack the watermelon open wins. The watermelon can then be shared amongst the players.
Loved for their succulent flesh and hydrating properties the watermelon has become synonymous with Japanese summertime. As well as keeping you hydrated, watermelon provide a natural source of vitamins A and C. Other vitamins and minerals in watermelon include magnesium, potassium, zinc and vitamins B6. Studies suggest watermelon may even boost heart health, reduce muscle soreness, and decrease inflammation.
Watermelons are incredibly versatile in the kitchen working well in savoury and sweet dishes from smoothies and salsa as well as making a delicious salad with maybe some cubes of tofu and mint.
But today I’m going to be using the whole of the fruit to make two very Japanese style recipes.
The first is watermelon sashimi, where we are going to roast the watermelon into something replicating a tuna steak.
You will need x1 mini watermelon (you don’t want one too big as it will be hard to roast so the mini variety is perfect.
Cut the rind from the watermelon and put this to one side in the fridge you’re going to be using this in recipe two.
Place a piece of parchment paper in a roasting dish and place your watermelon in the dish in a moderate oven 180–190 °C Gas Mark 4-5, to slowly roast for 2-21/2 hours turning every half an hour. It may take up to 3 hours depending how big your watermelon is.
Now make your marinade while the watermelon is roasting.
Blend 3/4 cup of tamari, 1/2 inch of grated ginger, x1 teaspoon of white miso paste, x2 tablespoons of sesame paste, juice of x1 lime, x1 teaspoon of tomato puree, x1 tablespoon of toasted sesame oil and a sprinkle of aonori (dried green seaweed).
Remove the roasted watermelon from the oven it may look charred around the edges but it’s supposed to look like that, the sugar in the watermelon will have turned into a remarkable caramelised texture. Now brush the marinade over the watermelon. Pop the marinated watermelon back in the oven for 15 minutes. This is also perfect to add to a bbq for an extra smokey flavour.
Then remove and leave to cool for a few hours, cover with a dish and leave overnight in the fridge to really soak up all those umami flavours. Remove from the fridge and tip out any juices that may have come out of the watermelon overnight.
When ready to cut slice diagonally to create even pieces of watermelon sashimi.
You could make Nigiri-zushi “hand pressed sushi” which is a typical Japanese dish consisting of an oval-shaped mound of vinegared rice with a slice of (usually) raw fish on top.
You can use the watermelon sashimi for this or make your own mock tuna sashimi donburi known as Tekkadon (鉄火丼). Just add some sliced shiso leaves chopped green onion some Japanese pickled sushi ginger “Beni Shoga” (紅生姜) a squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of sesame seeds.
Or a take on a poke bowl with rice watermelon tuna and slices of avocado, edamame beans and chunks of juicy mango.
You could even use it in sushi rolls.
Im sure this mock tuna steak could become a Japanese summer vegan staple and a fabulous addition to any summertime party you might be holding.
The second is using the rind from the watermelon to make Suika no Tsukemono スイカの漬物, Japanese Pickled Watermelon Rind.
Watermelon rinds are edible and nutritious and have even more potassium and fibre than the flesh! Helping to work with sodium to balance the fluid and electrolytes in the body.
This is a perfect embodiment of the shojin ryouri food philosophy of “Mottainai”もったいない or 勿体無い which translates to, ‘What a waste!’ or closely mirroring the old saying, “Waste not, want not.” Thus using the same ingredients with different recipes so as not to waste anything. I have another blog post where I talk about Ichi Motsu Zen Shoku, which is the use of using a vegetable in its entirety and Kondate-Zukushi a culinary practice of making an entire meal from one single ingredient. If you’re interested in further reading please check out my blog post (Japanese thanksgiving).
Suika no Tsukemono
Take the rind you have removed from the watermelon and using a vegetable peeler peel off the hard green outer skin leaving the paler green and a bit of pink flesh. Slice the rind into strips around as evenly as possible, about 1 and a 1/2 inches in length and about 1/4 inch thick.
Place the rinds in a re-sealable bag with the 1/2 a teaspoon of salt, gently rub to distribute and reseal the bag leaving in the fridge for a few hours. Make your marinade.
Marinade
1/2 teaspoon ginger juice, extracted from freshly grated ginger
2 tablespoons of brown rice vinegar
2-inch piece kombu (kelp), cut into strips
1 tablespoon of granulated sugar
1 tablespoon of tamari or soy sauce
2 or 3 peppercorns
Whisk the ingredients for the marinade together in a bowl. Remove the bag with the salted rinds from the fridge and pour out any liquid. Pour in your marinade and gently rub and toss the rinds to evenly spread the sauce.
Press out any excess air, seal the bag, and refrigerate preferably over night. After this time remove the kombu slithers.
They are best eaten the next day when the colour is vibrant.
Serve with a sprinkle of sesame seeds or for a bit of heat, add a drizzle of chili oil.
Japanese pickles (漬物, tsukemono) are an important part of the Japanese diet, served with practically every traditional meal alongside rice and miso soup. They are valued for their unique flavors and commonly used as a garnish, relish, condiment, palate cleanser aiding in digestion.
I hope that you will enjoy both of these recipes not just on a day dedicated to watermelon but the whole summer long.
Get your serving bowls ready.
Shunzo started to travel back and forth from Japan to Devon to help with supporting the production of tofu. In 2022 Shunzo moved to Devon with his family to start a new challenge with the Dragonfly team. “Shizenno Megumi” means natures best, the brand was started to follow the traditional style of tofu making in Japan. Working as a parent company with Dragonfly Foods in Devon they are BRC A+ soil association approved. Using Nigari as a coagulant the tofu requires intensive control to coagulate the rich soymilk. Nigari naturally promotes umami and sweetness, Nigari derived from the Japanese word for “bitter” is a product created through harvesting sea salt and letting the water evaporate. Nigari contains a high concentration of minerals such as magnesium, potassium, calcium, iron, copper, zinc, selenium and chlorines. The delicate soft tofu is hand crafted in Devon using Japanese techniques by a small group of passionate members bringing traditionally made Japanese style tofu to the U.K.
Spices: x1 teaspoon of onion powder, 1/2 teaspoon of garlic powder, 1/2 teaspoon of smoked paprika, x1 teaspoon of mixed herbs, x1 teaspoons of cayenne pepper.
Add the pulsed walnuts and the rest of the ingredients and give it all a good mix.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and spread out the mixture.
Place in a preheated moderate oven and bake for 30 minutes, then take the baking sheet out of the oven and give the tofu mixture a good mix round and spread it back out again. Place the tray back in the oven for 10 minutes and repeat again until all the mixture is dried out. Now your tofu taco mixture is ready to use.
Second meal idea is of course taco rice
I had just recently acquired some tomatillos that come wrapped in a papery inedible husk which you must remove first.
Wash them and slice into halves or quarters depending on the size. Toss lightly in olive oil and a little sprinkle of salt and roast in the oven.
While that’s being done toss some padron peppers in a little olive oil and blister them on high heat in a pan.
When they are done leave to cool. Slice one small red onion and one bulb of myoga ginger and add to a bowl. Myoga ginger can be found in some Asian super markets I have seen it in Ichiba in London and I buy mine from a Japanese store called Natural Natural in London. Myoga ginger doesn’t taste like ginger and is an edible flower bud. Add to this the juice of half a lime and 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Give it a mix and let it rest. When your tomatillos are ready leave to cool and chop finely your padron peppers then add both into the bowl with the onion and myoga. Finally add some chopped coriander and give it all a final stir.
You will also need a packet of vegan ramen and toppings.
When your ramen is ready drain and divide into two bowls and pour over your sesame soy milk. Drizzle with extra chilli oil for heat. Add your toppings and you’re done.
The weather is starting to heat up and what could be more enjoyable on a hot summers day than a delicious ice cream. Well this one is not only dairy free but is made with brown rice amazake. I’m using the one from Clearspring which you can find from health stores or on line.
Add your amazake to a bowl and add everything else except the toasted sesame oil. Give everything a mix then finally whisk in the oil until it’s well combined.
Add your mixture to a container and chill well in the fridge.
Take it out to soften slightly before serving. Dust with kinako powder.
It is made by extracting the juice of fresh sugar cane and crystallising it. It contains minerals like potassium and iron that are removed normally during refining. This sugar is mostly made in Okinawa and the people there refer to it as “life medicine” which is food that makes you feel good. You can buy kokuto in sugar granules or cube form. Kokuto is easily bought on line.
Pour into a small jug or bowl for pouring and set aside to cool. You may find it goes very thick just add a little hot water and stir to desired consistency. You can keep any left over in a jar in the fridge to use next time.
