Auspicious symbolisms of Japanese Winter

Part 1 Winter Solstice Touji (toji 冬至)

Japanese people have many seasonal customs using plants, flowers, animal motifs and delicious food to keep them lucky and healthy all winter long.

Food around the winter solstice and new year play an important role in symbolism. Let’s delve a little deeper starting with the winter solstice.

The Japanese follow traditional customs when daytime is the shortest. The winter solstice known as (touji or toji 冬至 in Japanese ) symbolizes the death and rebirth of the sun and is celebrated as we swing from negative to positive as the days start to lengthen. This is known as Ichiyo raifuku一陽来復.

Yuzu is a winter citrus fruit having a rich source of vitamin C which is good for the immunity. It is known for its cleansing properties and its fragrance it lowers tension and helps fatigue. This is why it is also popular to visit an onsen and bathe with yuzu fruit around the winter solstice this is called yuzu-yu (柚子湯), a hot bath with yuzu. The essential oils from the fruit help soothe the skin and mind. In Japan it is also said that the strong smell of yuzu will drive away evil spirits.

One such way that seasonal changes are celebrated is with something in Japan called “unmori” 運盛, this is something that has an auspicious nasel sound of “un” which means fortune and mori which means abundant, so it’s considered lucky to eat food produce that end with “n ん” for a healthy and lucky year ahead. They are known as “The seven foods of winter”  “n ん.” Pumpkin (なんきん nankin), lotus root (れんこん renkon), carrot (にんじん ninjin), ginkgo nuts (ぎんなん ginnan), kumquats (きんかん kinkan), agar (かんてんkanten), and udon noodles (うどん).

Kabocha (かぼちゃ) which is green-skinned squash with an orange flesh is a popular food eaten around the winter solstice. People wish for good health by eating this nutritious vegetable. Azuki beans are said to ward off evil spirits and bad luck and are often eaten together with Kabocha on the winter solstice. This combination is known in Japan as “Toji Kabocha”

Itokoni いとこ煮

Itokoni いとこ煮 is a rustic Japanese regional Buddhist dish from Ishikawa, Toyama and Niigata prefectures. This shojin ryori dish is often prepared at this time made of simmered azuki beans, burdock root, daikon radish, carrot, taro, konnyaku, and deep-fried tofu. The name itokoni means cousin stew, there are several theories about the origin of the name. One is it is generally known that the ingredients are put in a pot in order from the ones that takes the longest to cook following with ingredients which take less time to cook this process is known as  “Oi-oi” (oi means cousin) “.

To make this dish super easy I use the already boiled canned variety of azuki beans. Drain the azuki beans from the can. You will need half the can for this dish put the other half in a pan for later.

You will need around 100g each of roughly chopped daikon radish, carrot, kabocha pumpkin, 100g of peeled satoimo (taro potato) lotus root and burdock root with the outer skin scraped off.

You will also need a pack of the firm or super firm variety of Shizenno Megumi tofu. Drain the liquid from the pack and press out any liquid. Slice the tofu in half and put one half aside.

Heat some oil in a pan and fry 1/2 the tofu on all sides until it’s nice and crispy then cut into cubes.

Put 600ml of water in a large pot and add a 2-3 inch piece of kombu kelp. To add extra flavour I like to add a few slices of yuzu rind. When yuzu is in season I like to buy the fruit and slice the rind then freeze it for when I want to drop some in a broth. Start to heat up your water and then remove the kombu when you see bubbles.

Add the chopped burdock, carrots, daikon radish, lotus root and taro and simmer for 10-15 minutes then add the kabocha and tofu.

Add two tablespoons of tamari or soy sauce and one tablespoon of mirin. When the kabocha is tender add the azuki beans, as they are already cooked you just need to heat them through. You can also add a little green vegetables for colour if you wish.

Serve and enjoy.

Eating the seven winter foods is not only for superstition but it is also a way to add nourishment, vitamins and  β-carotene, to your diet keeping you healthy to prevent against colds and viruses. Why not even add udon noodles to this dish for that extra “n ん”

Now for a winter solstice dessert using the remaining tofu and azuki.

Kabocha & tofu almond mini fritters with sweet azuki beans and shiso.

Prepare the remaining azuki beans by adding a cup of water to the azuki beans in the pan along with 1/3 cup of sugar. Simmer the azuki beans and mash the beans to a thick paste. Then place in the fridge to set.

For the fritters:

You will need 1/4 kabocha pumpkin and the rest of the tofu from the above recipe.

You will also need a tablespoon of maple syrup, 8 tablespoons of plain sifted flour plus more for dusting your hands, fresh shiso leaves, a tablespoon of flaked almonds and neutral oil for frying.

Remove the rind from the kabocha and chop the flesh into chunks. Add the kabocha to a steamer or pan and steam or simmer until the kabocha is tender.

Drain the kabocha and add to the bowl with the tofu. Add a tablespoon of maple syrup and mash it all together.

Add the flour and work it all together into a soft dough.
Lay 6 shiso leaves out on to a surface. Scoop up balls of dough with floured hands and work each ball into a patty. Lay each patty onto a shiso leaf, keep doing this until all your dough has been used. Then push some flaked almonds into the surface and maybe a sprinkle of black sesame seeds if you have some.

Heat up some neutral flavour oil in a pan and lay the patties into the oil shiso side down first, cook until crispy then flip them over and do the same

Lift the fritters out of the oil on to some kitchen towel to absorb any oil. Serve warm with sweet azuki beans.

Why not make a lucky hot pot with seasonal vegetables or a dessert to enjoy on the winter solstice to bring health and wealth in the upcoming year ahead.

Happy winter solstice! 幸せな冬至